We have decided from the start to specialize in black Tans. However, thanks to the wonders of genetics we do have blues and chocolates that occasionally pop up in our litters. If you are interested in purchasing stock please send us an e-mail. You may also fill out the waiting list form at the bottom of this page.
More information about the Tan breed can be found on this page. Additional photos can be found in our photo gallery. Below you will find a short video clip which shows how the Tans run on the show table. It does have background sound, so you may wish to turn down your volume.
About the Tan breed
Quick Facts:
Varieties: Tans come in four varieties (colors): Black, Blue, Chocolate and Lilac. Regardless of the variety all Tans have a beautiful rich tan color underneath. The tan factor is the darkest on the blacks and chocolates and lightest on the lilacs and blues.
Weight: 4-6 lbs is the official weight range listed in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. However, most competitive Tans are well under 5 lb. with around 4.5 lb. being average. Bucks tend to be lighter than does.
Breed History:
The Tan breed originated in England in the late 1800s. The complete breed history can be found on the American Tan Rabbit Specialty Club website.
Temperament:
Tans are a very active and intelligent breed of rabbit. They are rarely aggressive and love attention. They are very friendly and love to greet you as soon as you open the cage door. They also love playing with rabbit safe toys.
It is very important to know that Tans are not a "cuddly" rabbit and are best suited for older children or adults. Young children will be fine as well as long as they respect the personality of the rabbit and understand how to handle the rabbit properly.
While Tans are not at all aggressive, it is please understand that does can get a little snippy when they hit sexual maturity. They are also protective when they have litters. This is not at all unique to the breed and is true of all does.
Common Problems:
Thankfully, as a breed Tans are not known to have many problems. Since they are so active, occasionally they may pull out a toenail. It is important to watch the toenail as it sometimes comes back white. The same can happen if they have an injury of sorts such as a nip from another rabbit – the fur may come back white.
Tans also chew on their cage wire a lot and may pull their teeth out of alignment. It is important to check their teeth from time to time, especially while they are young and their jaw is still forming.
Basic Care:
Housing:
Adult Tans seem to do well in 24 X 24 cages, providing they are getting regular exercise. Mothers with litters should be house in larger cages, 24 X 30 or even larger if possible. If space is not a constraint, more space will never hurt.Feeding:
The amount can vary depending upon the individual rabbits and your climate, but generally a heaping half-cup of pellets daily is sufficient. Timothy or another suitable grass hay is also recommended.
Entertainment:
Tans tend to get bored easily and may run around their cages excessively or chew on the wire if they do not have something to keep them entertained. Rabbit safe toys are recommended to prevent pulled teeth from wire chewing. Regular exercise and attention is also necessary.
Breeding:
In general, Tans are easy to raise. Tans are a marked breed but do not have "mismarked" offspring. With very few exceptions, all offspring will be showable. Additionally, all four varieties can be bred to one another without concern for getting an unrecognized variety out of the breeding.
That being said, generally speaking, blacks are bred to blacks or blues. Blues can be bred to another blue but they should always be bred back to blacks every other generation (at least) to prevent the tan factor and blue color from becoming too light. Blue is simply the dilute of black. Chocolates are often bred to chocolates or lilacs. Just as blues need to be bred back to blacks, lilacs need to be bred back to chocolates. Lilac is the dilute of chocolate.
Showing:
Tans are a full arch "running breed" which means they are allowed to move freely on the table rather than be posed during examination. The video above on this page demonstrates this. Points are not allotted to a rabbit’s running ability, but rather allowing them to move freely allows the judge to best evaluate the type, markings and color.
Judges that poke or push the rabbits in order to get them to run will often see that the rabbit does not respond. The Tan should be allowed to freely explore and move naturally. Judges should handle the rabbit briefly to examine the animal for disqualifications and evaluate the tan factor and markings. Otherwise, judges need to keep their hands off the rabbits as much as possible.
As they are inquisitive and friendly rabbits, they may want to spend some time exploring and sniffing before they start moving on the table. This frustrates judges as it does make the judging process time consuming. However, once again, allowing the Tan to move freely without touching the animal is an absolute must. In the end, you will find the judging process will actually go faster if you leave the rabbits alone to move on their own. If a Tan does not start moving immediately, you can always leave it out on the table while you continue your examination of other animals in the class.
If holding coops are available, judges may consider placing animals in them to watch them move freely around the cage. Once again, allowing the animal to move freely is what is important. Running is the most common way we allow them to freely move, but it is not the only way to evaluate type.
A judge should ideally know difference between a poorly structured animal and one that is just lacking confidence on the show table. A frightened Tan will often run low to the table, often with the front limbs lower than the back limbs. This may give the appearance that the animal is running "downhill" which leads judges to think the animal lacks proper extension of the front legs. That certainly may be true in some cases, but it also possible the animal is just moving in a way that does not show off their type well. This is why allowing the animal to move freely in the holding coops can be helpful.
Waiting List Form
By filling out this form, you are by no means obligated to purchase a rabbit. You will simply be added to our waiting list and will be notified about the current availability of animals. We will contact people in the order in which we receive the inquiries.
Please note: by submitting this form you are indicating that you have read and agree to our sales policy. If this is not the case (or if this form does not work for you), please e-mail us.
